Traveling to Komodo Island is something which has conjured images of Indiana Jones style exploring for quite a long time. It just seems like the sort of place people shouldn’t go. Somewhere wild, unexplored and dangerous. It is after all called the Land of the Dragon. With such a perceived reputation, there couldn’t be a better endorsement for us to visit.
Starting from Bali, our journey consisted of a series of inter-island ferries, buses and bemos (local shuttle buses) before arriving at the ultimate destination of Labuan Bajo, Flores. Going straight from Bali, this was roughly what our journey looked like: shuttle bus from Ubud, Bali to the port city of Padangbai. Wait. Catch the 4-5 hour (slow) ferry between Bali and Lombok islands. Shuttle bus from the Lombok port town 30-40 minutes to the city of Mataram. Wait. Catch the overnight bus from Mataram which first drives the remaining 2 hours across Lombok and then rolls onto ferry #2.
Over land/sea route image from Ubud, Bali to Labuan Bajo, Flores
Board the two hour ferry crossing to the island of Sumbawa. From the ferry port, we re-boarded the bus and attempted to sleep on the 9-hour drive across most of the island of Sumbawa to the town of Bima. At Bima (around 4 am), transfer to a bemo for the remaining 2-hour drive across Sumbawa to the port town of Sape. Wait. Walk aboard ferry #3 and claim one of the ‘for rent’ mattresses. Watch movie on Kindle. Realize at the end of the movie that the ferry has not yet left port… Eat a cup of noodles, quit worrying about the time and then sleep for the remaining 7-hour ferry ride (once it starts).
Above: Us aboard the overnight bus from Mataram to Bima; Below left: Sleeping quarters aboard the ferry; Below right: Happily waiting to resolve a bus ticket ‘issue’ in Bima
The ferry end point is the town of Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores – the jumping off point to Komodo National Park. Between all the different types of transport and the waiting game between catching each next leg, the journey took us about 40 hours in total. The cost for this local transport ran about $45 pp but the experience was priceless.
Sunset view of the harbor in Labuan Bajo, Flores
Taking this route definitely posed a few challenges, but it also gave a nice overview of real Indonesian life. A handful of backpackers take the bus/ferry route but the majority of travelers are local, which means it is perfectly normal to have a sack of live ducks under your seat and giant bags of rice in the isles. They, too, are making their way across the islands from one town to the next. The only thing to do is smile and enjoy the ride. Walk over the rice bags as you board the bus and allow the quiet clucking of the ducks to gently lull you to sleep. Slightly harder to smile through was the 3 am wakeup call to pumping, club-mix, dance music as the drivers changed shifts. Again, smile and enjoy the prequel to the 4 am call to prayer and watch as the people make their way through each small town to their local mosque. If it weren’t for the club-mix, we might have missed this.
Sunset silhouette of a mosque in Labuan Bajo, Flores
Once in Labuan Bajo, there are a number of tour operators and independent boats with which to bargain to secure a trip to Komodo National Park. The only way to arrive there is by boat. Our bargaining skills earned us a 2 day/1 night trip aboard a small boat with 3 other travelers at $60 pp including food. The itinerary included stops on both Rinca and Komodo islands to trek with a park ranger and see the dragons as well as several snorkeling stops, including a swim with manta rays. The boat is an adventure all in itself as you eat, sleep, play and travel ‘on deck’ for the duration of the trip.
Komodo National Park is an incredible place as much for its unique animal life as for its history. Composed of 3 large islands (Komodo, Rinca and Padar), as well as a portion of Flores island and 26 smaller islands, it was first declared a national park in 1980 with the goal of protecting the Komodo monitor lizard (Komodo dragon). It has since been expanded to protect the surrounding marine environment, which is recognized worldwide for its amazing biodiversity. What is so interesting about the Komodo dragon is it wasn’t discovered by the modern, scientific world until 1910! It’s mind bending a creature so large and non-elusive could remain undiscovered for so long.
Overview of the Rinca Island landscape
There are only approximately 4,000-5,000 Komodo dragons in existence in the wild and their population is limited to only 5 Indonesian islands; Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motong, Gili Dasami and along the northwestern coast of Flores. As the largest monitor lizard in the world, they can reach lengths of up to 10 feet (3 m) and weigh in at over 150 pounds (70 kg). They are carnivorous and though they predominantly eat carrion, they will hunt live prey when necessary including deer and water buffalo.
As the islands of Komodo and Rinca are inhabited, we were curious to know if there were ever conflicts between the dragons and the people living on the islands. Our guide on Rinca was born and raised on the island and told us numerous accounts of people which had been bitten and/or killed each year. The preferred hunting method of the dragons is to hide and ambush their prey lunging forward to bite unsuspecting legs. Following these stories, we all walked a bit slower and more carefully, particularly through the tall grasses on the island trails.
Says the dragon to the tourists, “I don’t like being followed…”
We were fortunate to find both a juvenile and a massive adult dragon during our hike on Rinca. The adult was probably around 8 feet (2.5 m) from snout to tail and was making his way down our hiking trail. With our guide ahead of us wielding his forked stick as protection, we followed the dragon for a bit until he made a sudden stop. Then, he turned around and started walking back up the trail heading straight for our small group. The guide became quite excited urging us all to walk quickly away from the approaching dragon as they can run up to 12 mph for short bursts when interested. However, after a few paces our way, this one turned off into the woods which worked out much better for us in the end.
Our Komodo crew from left to right: Witold (Vito), Peter, Kenny, Laura and Shira
There is a small but steady stream of tourists making the boat trip to Komodo National Park every day. As the region becomes increasingly developed (particularly as a diving destination), an increasing number of people are traveling here – having both advantages and disadvantages for the local people and the park. We feel very fortunate to have been able to see Komodo as it is now and hope it will maintain its mysterious allure as the Land of the Dragon.
I also read in Douglas Adams’ book that they bite their prey and then basically just follow them around waiting for them to die of sepsis from their disgusting teeth. Does everyone travel to the island that way? Or was it just because you started from Bali?
Definitely they have dirty mouthes and sepsis is the most widely accepted theory on how their prey is killed. Very recently, it was discovered they have venom as well which is released from paired glands in the lower jaw when they bite. The venom causes hypotension, muscle paralysis and prevents blood coagulation among other things… hence the controversy.
Either way, I’d prefer to avoid a bite! I’ll have to go check out the Adams book though, thanks!
You absolutely do not have to travel to Komodo the way we did. We went for the cheapest route! You can fly to Labuan Bajo directly from Bali which takes about an hour.
You can also take a tourist boat which takes 4d/3n (7d/6n for round trip) I believe and takes in several other stops along the way to snorkel and visit other islands.
Another amazing tale of your exploits. You are providing me with an armchair education and more aware of what amazing creatures inhabit our earth. Your view of the countries you visit is the kind that so many never see or hear about unless they watch National Geographic and your photos are stunning. You really need to publish a book when you get back. Do you still pinch yourself to make sure that you aren’t dreaming?
Do we still pinch ourselves… every day.
So many of the places we’ve been we first visited from our couches via a Nat Geo special. It’s definitely been educational as well to see, feel, hear and taste different cultures first hand. We both feel exceptionally lucky and grateful to be on this trip. I’m glad you are enjoying the photos too. I’m very proud of what Kenny has been able to capture with his camera. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-UciSePPPw
Hahaha, that was awesome! Thanks for the laugh, Dan!